Tjena!

So, after the sick season was over for me, I went to besiktning....

I suspected that something will be wrong but the results surprised me.

I didn't pass the inspection due to exhaust fumes. And I can expect that catalyst converter need change yep, but why results are so strange???



The weird (at least for noob me) thing is that I have the proper value for IDLE (0.2 (0.5)) and just ruined results for 2500 RPM (1.0 (0.3)) . They are supposed to be lower.


I'm asking for help from the experts!

* What I should check?
* Should I just heat it more before doing the inspection (but why numbers for 2500RPM are so high in this case?)
* Could it be something with ignition? but then... meh..
* MAP sensor? or something wrong with PCV?

I'm not super sad, this is not a daily car anyway, but I want to fix it before winter.

Eugene skrev:

Tjena! So, after the sick season was over for me, I went to besiktning.... I suspected that something will be wrong but the results surprised me. I didn't pass the inspection due to exhaust fumes. And I can expect that catalyst converter need change yep, but why results are so strange??? The weird (at least for noob me) thing is that I have the proper value for IDLE (0.2 (0.5)) and just ruined results for 2500 RPM (1.0 (0.3)) . They are supposed to be lower. I'm asking for help from the experts! * What I should check? * Should I just heat it more before doing the inspection (but why numbers for 2500RPM are so high in this case?) * Could it be something with ignition? but then... meh.. * MAP sensor? or something wrong with PCV? I'm not super sad, this is not a daily car anyway, but I want to fix it before winter.

Are you running the stock ECU?

/C

carl.josefsson skrev:

Are you running the stock ECU? /C

yep!

I was thinking about getting wideband lambda to check a/f but they're pretty expensive new for only one goal (for now )

This is how spark plug looks (on July 18)

Since the retest is only about CO 2500 you can simply try to run it like you stole it (high rpm and high load) and measure on the outside. Ask the inspector and he'll understand.
The main culprit can simply be the cat being a little slow to get started.

Niklas Falk skrev:

Since the retest is only about CO 2500 you can simply try to run it like you stole it (high rpm and high load) and measure on the outside. Ask the inspector and he'll understand. The main culprit can simply be the cat being a little slow to get started.

I just informed my besiktningsman that I had a "race cat" and asked him to "warm it up" before the test, worked like a charm

/C

so, failed it again The good thing is that inspectors are nice and I can just drop in and test values without paying money.

However, yep, I was heating kat like crazy and before doing the test I asked the inspector to keep 4-5k RPM for some time. Numbers changed from 1.0 to 0.8 which is still too high.

Gonna park my car and dig into that problem during winter... which is not ideal but what I can do now I have a lot of things to work on anyway.
Always happy to any advice on where I should start searching.

I'm waiting for new transmission anyway so will do exhaust leaks check during a swap.
Also gonna fix cold intake to make it more solid. What else? Maybe I'll find who can borrow lambda so I'll be sure that it's not A/F ratio issue.

AHA! I was so lazy to post something during the winter. Shame on me!

But, time to post something

1. The winter has started with checking what I should fix and with the comfy carpet under the car:



2. Then I got a list of what I should fix/change/improve
- bonnet (done)
- front upper arms bushings (both sides) (delivered, need to change)
- from and rear stabilizer bar link. Bought an adjustable from IL (done)
- from lower ball joints. Bought extended. (delivered, need to change)
- change transmission (delivered, need to change) , clutch, and maintenance
- do the engine full maintenance and change the water pump (in progress)
- some small fixes here and there (in progress)
- new front pads (need to order)
- maybe do something with a catalyst, maybe not. maybe engine maintenance will fix an issue (not started)
- new from Nankang NS-2R (need to order)
- learn how to do wheel adjustment and do it + corner weight balance

3.
First improvement!
Q: If you could explain or recommend what to read about HOW TO WORK WITH METAl and how should I make my fender looks better, please help


Little helper:


New bonnet!!


new transmission!


Should I repair this rubber on the top of k-sport colilovers?


Old gearbox leaking everywhere


Ground cable shape is BAD!


Just a bunch of random photos, right, however, I'll try to fix it and make more progress checks.
Next post - engine maintenance and question to experts

nice update and nice work done

/C

Okej, engine maintenance post.

I did part of the maintenance last summer however, I found out that my waterpump is leaking like a hell, also crankshaft pulley is cracked (lol) and unbalanced which causes idle vibrations which cause leaks etc.

What I want to fix:
- camshaft seals
- waterpump + seals + some parts connected to it
- crankshaft seals
- CAS o-ring
- new thermostat and seal
- obviously other seals :P
- maybe some hosing

Photos:



VERY BAD! Rusty, coolant leaks, nice that I decided to fix it


That where I started to feel something wrong. Is not ok, right? there are too much of sealant and why it's here:



Here are reasons:



Can't help with his paws, unfortunately



AAAND A QUESTION FOR PROFESSIONAL MECHANICS FROM REJSA!
Should I make it super clean???
I suppose if I keep it like that it will leak. And I don't want to use sealant. I want to make it nice and clean.
I've clean sealant with break / engine cleaner. But corrosion...
HOW TO DO IT? Should I do it?

well, my plan is to clean the corrosion with a wooden brick and abrasive on it and then apply a thin layer of sealant before putting the gasket and water pump on. Will try it today

The surface actually doesn't look that bad.
With that surface, I'm not certain that the gasket was the culprit.

If you sand it, use wet sanding - say 400-600 grit.

You only want to clean the surface, not scratch it.

And yes, use some sealant combined with the new gasket - that is what I always do if in doubt.

New gearbox, nice!

I'd say save the question about rust under the fenders until later. Possibly the autumn... Get it back on track and have fun over the summer

I wouldn't worry about the sealant being sign of previous issues. Many mechanics (like myself) uses a little silicon just to hold the gaskets in place while you assemble. Takes 10s and makes sure it stays in the right place. As said already: Clean the surfaces with some wet-sanding and slam it together with new gaskets. Don't over-do it. Just a little sanding will do it.

Thanks Christian, Fejlep and Torkel!

Yesterday, I've been working on the suspension:



Only need to change both upper arms

Also, moving to the new place inside the same garage. Just in front of the exit, so will be easier to maintain a car in between track days.



next - finish engine work so I can actually drive

There was an issue with the ground cable.
Feeling guilty that I didn't make it by myself but bought exactly what I needed because there is a lot of other work

Yay,

waterpump and seals changed. almost ready

Nu hittade jag att du har en tråd på rejsa! kul!!!

När det gäller vattenpump, tänk på att vi fick inte ha någon glykol i kylsystemet när vi körde roadsport, så att den har stått med bara vatten i motorn mellan 2011-2015...
Jag tänkte inte så mycket på det förräns jag skulle börja åka med den på vintern, det var hemskt när jag spolade ur motorn.
Tror fortfarande att du borde kolla upp om det kommer ut kompressionsgaser i kylmanteln.
Kan ju vara därför det har läckt. Om du inte redan har gjort det förstås.

I både växellåda och differential är det RedLine olja. Tror jag bytte till sommaren 2017.

Skönt att se att du köpt en ny huv

Hi Christian!

yeah, preparing the car for the season I hope you also have a new project.

Could you give a bit more details for "check for compression gases coming out of the cooling jacket", not sure if I understand what you mean?

Also, I guess it was leaking due to vibrations caused by the old crankshaft pulley. There was a crack/dent in it (check old photos) and it caused a lot of vibrations on idle. My assumption is that these vibrations cause leaks. At least it started leaking only at the end of last season.

aaaand it runs!!!


https://www.youtube.com/shorts/jFGEayfWr_M

Only need to attach fenders and new hood and car is ready for inspection and track days!

Still need:
* fresh pads , for the current one I think one track day left.
* fix ground cable
* change transmission
* do a wheel alignment and corner balancing

AHA!!

Ny banåkarbil journal uppdatera.

jag är lära sig svenska och träna skriva pitte lite.

Så, många tuning!


-----

Reparerad air-intake det var absolut inte bra





---

Körade till min kompis workshop! Fantastikt!



However we tested exhaust numbers and I need to do some more tests before going to inspection, unfortunately (((

Currently looking for someone who can borrow me a stock lambda sensor to test. I have a feeling that my sensor may be broken.



Vår mecca (?) garage atmosfär . Hallå Frans!

Bra väder post