Mod: ETCC till F1C

Tråd där vi samlar alla mod och uppdatringar till ETCC.

Grunden för detta mod är F1 Challenge 1999-2002



Gör så här:

Lägg in en länk till moddet.
Hur man får igång det (om det krävs).
Vad man uppnår med det.
Ska man skriva utverderingar samt diskutera moddet så får man köra det i en särskild tråd.
Här vill vi ha det så rent som möjligt.

Även tekniska lösningar för att få spelet att flyta bättre kan var på sin plats här !

Här hittar ni alla ETCC-filer ni kan tänkas behöva:
http://www.rsr-forum.net/rsr/downloads/ETCC2003_EvolutionFull.EXE
http://www.rsr-forum.net/rsr/downloads/ETCC2003_EvolutionUpdate.EXE

EDIT: Uppdaterat länktarna lite igen, 2005-11-11 //NiklasM

Här hittar ni MYCKET filer till ETCC:

http://www.m4driving.sm/files/1704.html

Nu kan ni hitta följande vy här:




EDIT: Ny länk http://217.172.172.135/rsr/downloads/gauges.zip

OBS!!! Glöm inte att ta backup på er default.cfg-fil innan ni gör något.

Jag hittade följande på ett forum angående setups:

Power/coast sides are the percentage of torque transferred through the diff. The closer to 100%, the quicker the differential action kicks in. A low number will allow more wheelspeed difference and the diff lock will come on slower.

Power is for acceleration, coast is for decceleration. You generally want the coast side as free as possible (0%) to give the car good turn in. Power side is down to taste, but the tighter the turns on a particular track, the free'er you make it, or you will understeer through the turns because you cant get the wheelspeed difference high enough.

Preload is the amount of torque required to get initial wheelspeed difference. This is handy when you're running a fairly open diff, as it stops the inside wheel lighting up instantly. It's like a buffer for the diff action, but if you turn it up too high, you will get more understeer off and on the power. Turn it up really high, and you have a locked diff.

Theres also the diff pump, which is the main value. It alters how tightly the diff is locked. You combine this with your diff power/coast sides. You can have a slow acting diff that locks up hard, or a fast acting diff that doesnt lock much (and any other combination).

Most of it is down to trial and error, trying to minimise wheelspin but keeping the handling crisp. The differential is one of the areas where compromise rules.

Hoppas att det klarnade lite.....

Sänka ljudet på konkurenterna.

Editera din PLR-fil och ändra värdet

[ Sound options ]
...
other Volume Ratio="0.40000" // Additional volume multiplayer for other vehicles

Det står 0,8 där idag!

Vart ligger PLR-filen?

Den ligger i din profilmapp... så här ser det ut hos mig:

F:\Program Files\EA SPORTS\F1 Challenge 99-02\ETC03Save\ThomasT

sedan är det bara öppna filen med notepad och ändra.

För att få bort att huvudet lutar vid styrning.

Ändra i filen *ert namn*.plr som finns i Er ETCC2003save\*ert namn*

Glance Rate="7.00000" // Rate to follow controller for glancing

Byt ut värdet till 0.00000

Glance Rate="0.00000" // Rate to follow controller for glancing

Niklas Maravic skrev:

Nu kan ni hitta följande vy här: http://members.fortunecity.de/chipsy69/index.html OBS!!! Glöm inte att ta backup på er default.cfg-fil innan ni gör något.

Länken funkar inte... någon som kan lägga den hos Koni i stället?

EDIT: Fixat! Se ny länk ovan! /NiklasM

Här kommer lite mer om setups i ETCC:

ETCC 2003 Mod Setup Guide

What kind of car are you driving?

The ETCC 2003 Mod features a set of totally different car types, there are the FWD cars (Alfa, Audi, Seat, Honda, Skoda, Volvo), the RWD BMW and the AWD Audi Quattro. You should know the individual strengths and weaknesses of your car to set it up correctly. All FWD cars and the Audi Quattro have most of their weight on the front wheels, i.e. a forward CG location. The Alfa is the most extreme car there, with 61% of it's weight in the front, the BMW has an almost neutral weight distribution (51/49). The Volvo is a special case, since it's the FWD car with the most neutral weight distribution. Usually race car designers try to get the CG location as low and rearward as possible, you have to find a compromise with FWD cars of course, since they need some of their weight in the front to load the front tires and get the torque down to the road under acceleration.

CG location has a great impact on the overall performance of the car, especially on corner entry. When the brakes are applied, load is transferred from the rear tires to the front tires. Tires are load sensitive, thus you want to keep your tires as evenly loaded as possible to get optimum grip (a pair of tires provides the theoretical best overall grip when loaded evenly). On corner entry, the front outside tire is loaded heavily, the more weight is transferred to the front outside tire, the less overall cornering grip is available for the car as a whole. Of course a CG located at the front of the car, as is the case wit FWD cars, has the desireable effect of exaggerating that load transfer even more. Under acceleration load is transferred from front to rear, in the case of an FWD car load is taken off the driven wheels, which means that they will provide less grip, that is the simple reason why there are no successful FWD race cars with more than 300nm max torque. The RWD car has an advantage "by design" under acceleration.

Most cars come with a MacPherson strut front suspension and a double wishbone rear suspension,
the Alfa engineers did it the other way round and applied a double wishbone front suspension layout and a MacPherson strut rear suspension design. The main disadvantage of the MacPherson strut suspension design is that it loses negative camber in bump, that means that you need to use more negative camber with a MacPherson strut suspension design to get optimum tire grip. The Seat Toledo has a beam axle rear suspension fitted, the problem is that the control arms tend to bend under high lateral loads and screw up the suspension geometry. You have to be very careful with the Alfa and Seat not to apply too high lateral accelerations to their rear end, especially in the first laps, when front tire grip is still high, you might have trouble getting it back under control.

Final gear ratios and fuel
To put it simple, the first thing you should do when setting up your car for the racetrack is to find the best gear ratios and keep the amount of fuel you carry as low as possible. ETCC cars don't have adjustable gear ratios, but the differential transmission can be adjusted, usually your final gear ratios are perfectly set up when the highest gear maxes out on the longest straight of the racetrack. The shorter your gear ratios are, the better your acceleration, so you want to keep the final gear ratios as short as possible.
This might the most important single setup option since it can mean an advantage of 1-1.5 seconds per lap if your gears are set up properly.

Brake Balance
This is the next very important setup option. Don't forget that the brake balance can be adjusted from inside the cockpit and good drivers use that feature! Brake balance defines the proportioning of brake force (or brake torque) to the front and rear tires. If you have too much brake force in the front your front wheels will lock up first and you won't be able to steer often resulting in a miss of (at least) the apex of a corner. This has the undesirable side-effect that your front tires will heat up and wear down quickly.
Too much brake force in the rear will cause your rear wheels to lock up first, the car will tend to spin,
based on the destabilizing side force that the still-rolling front tires provide. The correct brake balance depends on numerous factors...the weight distribution of your car, the coefficient of grip of the road surface (different weather requires different brake balance), the rate of deceleration (how hard you are trying to stop), if you are cornering and braking at the same time and the condition of your tires of course.
This becomes extremely important in the FWD cars, they have more weight in the front which is
undeseriable and makes braking with FWD cars harder, the default setups are adjusted so you won't spin when stampeding your brakes into the first corner, but after the first corner you should be able to give the rear wheels some more brake torque, if you fail to do so your front tires will wear down quickly and the overall braking performance of your car will suffer. It definetely pays off to practice braking with more brake force on the rear wheels, if you are able to control an unstable car (where the rear wheels lock up first) you might be able to brake later, but usually it's desirable to have the front wheels lock up just the fraction of a second before the rear wheels do.

Tire Pressure & Camber
During the first 1-3 laps you will notice that your tires will heat up mainly on the outer areas of the contact patch, but the more they heat up the more the pressure will increase, meaning that your tires will heat up more in the middle area of the contact patch. If you are just going out for 1-4 laps you mgiht want to increase tire pressure to make your tires heat up more evenly, but more tire pressure also means that your tires will heat up more quickly. If your tires are heating up mainly on the inner area of the contact patch you might want to reduce negative static camber, remember that all cars have different suspensions with different camber change rates, but those cars with MacPherson front strut (BMW, Seat, Volvo, Skoda, Honda) need more static negative camber. One of the major drawbacks of the MacPherson strut suspension layout is that it loses negative camber in bump, which means that you will need to add more negative camber in the garage since the body roll adds positive camber to the wheel.

Springs, Dampers & Anti-Roll Bars
There is a simple rule you should know, the more roll stiffness your car has in the front the more it will understeer, the higher the rear roll stiffness the more it will oversteer. Via springs, dampers and anti-roll bars you can easily change the front or rear roll stiffness of your car, if you have too much oversteer you should decrease rear roll stiffness by making the springs, anti-roll bar or slow damper settings softer. You can also increase front roll stiffness to avoid oversteer. Changing the anti-roll bars is one of the easiest ways to balance your car, changes in the anti-roll bars will only be noticeable with some lateral acceleration while changes in spring stiffness also change the behaviour of the car under straight line braking or acceleration. The slow bump dampers can be used to control only the turn-in of the car, i.e. the first part of the corner, while the rebound dampers change the over-/understeer behaviour of the car in the middle of fast corners. In a FWD car you usually want a oversteering behaviour during the first 1-3 laps, your front tires will heat up and wear down and that means more understeer for your car, so your car will be neutral after 5-6 laps. Setting your car up for more understeer will also make the front tires wear down more quickly. If you are not experienced with setting up your car you should only make changes to the anti-roll bar settings of your car until you find a good setup which is suitable for the track and your driving style. Remember that different cars have different suspension characteristics (static roll center height, dynamic roll-center movement...) and need different setups.

Här hittar du banor till ETCC

Kolla på http://hsw.hu/etcc03tracks/etcc.htm

För F1C zippa upp i F1C\SeasonData\Circuits katalogen
För F12002 zippa upp i F12002\season02\tracks folder

EDIT: Länken fungerar tyvärr inte längre. //NiklasM

Ny view till ETCC: http://www.bhmotorsports.com/file/4883

etcc

jag är hos en kompis vars etcc bilar flimrar, det blir långa vita "hål".
kan någon hjälpa?

det står att grafikkorts uppdatering 52.15 inte funkar men jag har en nyare uppdatering 53.03 men det flimrar ändå
(geforce3 ti 400)

Jag har faktiskt inte hört talas om något så här förut...Har ni provat att ändra upplösning till lägre? Eller byta till 16-bitars färger...

Ingen av dom Nvidia drivrutinerna senare än 52.xx har funkat för mig. Bara i ETCC det är kass.

Jag var tvungen att köra med 43,45 för att det skulle fungera ,till ett Gf 4 Ti 46 00

Jag råkade ut för de där också, med mitt geforce 3 kort, jag bytte till 45.23 så fungerar de utmärkt.

om cirkus 2 veckor kommer en ny uppdatering av modden! Version 1.5 innehåller en massa godsaker...

New features/changes at a glance:

* the all new Enna Pergusa track (most of the modelling done by Ewan Chalker aka Uzzi)

* completely revised physics, including improved tire physics

* improved balancing, more realistic laptimes

* 20+ setups included for various tracks/cars

* "optimized" mts-files to cure the display issues experienced by nvidia users (thanks to Marc Aarts aka Locutus)

* modified engine sounds and new commentary sounds

* improved AI behaviour, more intense racing

* an improved launcher with new useful features

.....

Är det någon som vet nått om uppdateringen till ETCC,??

ETCC Evolution är ute nu!!!!!

http://www.rsr-forum.net/

New features/changes at a glance:

completely revised physics, including improved tire physics
improved balancing, more realistic laptimes
20+ setups included for various tracks/cars
"optimized" mts-files to cure the display issues experienced by nvidia users
modified engine sounds and new commentary sounds
improved AI behaviour, more intense racing
an improved launcher with new useful features

The mod is coming in a full installer version (255 MB) and an update installer version (123 MB) for those who have the ETCC 2003 Mod already installed.

The setups are in the root folder of your settings directory, so you have to go browse to the parent folder in the setup browser. Please don't try using your old setup files with ETCC - Evolution, first try the default setups and the setups provided with Evolution.

Please check www.racesimsrevolution.net for download mirrors.

ETCC 2003 Evo är mycket bättre - Körkänslan är väldigt bra.

Tycker om den nya banan också - Enna Pergusa

Jag tyckte inte det var så stor skillnad i körkänslan,kanske lite bättre,Däremot så är det snabbare nu.Jag var nere på låga 1 38 rundor på Interlagos redan efter 4/5 varv det är ca 1s bättre än jag körde förut